Visit to Gandhidham

 Its been a long time since I last wrote a blog post. Apologies for this rather long gap but the truth is that I had run out of topics. I then also got busy serving our Local Sindhi Panchayat in Old Rajinder Nagar ( where I am now the General Secretary) and hence writing took a backseat. However, it was always my my intention to start writing again so I though why not (re) start now. A big thanks to my wife Monica who keeps nudging me every now and then to continue with the blog.

 I recently went on a short two-day trip to Gandhidham to attend the condolence meet of an elderly relative “Ammi”  who passed away at the ripe age of 101 years. All throughout my growing up years , my maternal aunt and her husband kept inviting me to come to  Gandhidham but I always had one excuse or other thinking that it is too far away. When I heard about “Ammi”’s death , I had this urge to visit their home and within a short period , I was able to plan and visit them. As the saying goes “ Jahan Chaah vahan Raah” (Where there is a will, there is a way). Given my interest in Sindhi identity, I have always read about how Gandhidham became a key city for post partition refugee Sindhis thanks to the efforts of Bhai Partap (Dialdas) and others who wanted to develop the twin cities of Adipur and Gandhidham as resettlement colonies for displaced Sindhi refugees. He was also instrumental in setting up of Kandla Port. It was his economic vision that led to an awareness of the concept of zones for duty-free export in independent India, and the establishment of the first such zone at Kandla. It is also perhaps the only place where Sindhis are still in sizable numbers and one can overhear/speak in Sindhi in most areas. In fact, since Gandhidham falls in Kutch area of Gujarat, Kutchi being the other commonly spoken language which many also count as a dialect of Sindhi. I have also  grown up reading about the famous Indian Institute of Sindhology (IIS) established by prominent Sindhis to serve as a centre of excellence for Sindhi culture and traditions and the work of stalwarts like Prof. Pritam Varyani , Prof Sahib Bijani and others who had dedicated their entire lives to promotion and preservation of Sindhi identity.

 I took a flight from Delhi to Ahmedabad followed by a 5-hour car journey from Ahmedabad to Gandhidham. Given work commitments, I reached Gandhidham at around 4 o clock in the evening and had to leave at 11 AM next day so that I could reach back Delhi by around 9 in the evening. Whilst I was there for a short 16-hour journey to meet family, there is something magical about Gandhidham that has stayed on with me. There is a very Sindhi vibe to the place.  Even at my relative’s place, most of the neighbourhood families were Sindhis settled there since partition. Like in the olden days, grief of losing a loved one is shared with ones near and dear ones with the  community providing comfort and support and close friends/family gather every evening for a communal meal . These rituals will continue for the entire mourning period of 12 days. With Ammi’s firm belief in Tulsi Dham , a Sindhi Tikano in the city centre which is run by a Sindhi family of Udasi sect , Guru Granth Sahib was brought to the residence the next morning  and Paath initiated which will continue for the next few days. As the Paathi/Pandit is from Udasin sect, along with Guru Sahib’s homecoming, the path recital was preceeded by Hindu Navgraha Puja. As many readers will be aware, Udasi sect was founded by Baba Sri Chand, the elder son of Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikhism. The Udasi sect's religious practices are a syncretism of Sikhism and Hinduism. The morning Guru path was followed by serving of Sindhi breakfast of Daal Pakwaan which was cooked with the assistance of a Sindhi helper lady. I had to unfortunately board the taxi for my return journey soon thereafter.

 Whilst in the taxi, I couldn’t help wondering where else (other than a Sindhi household) will I ever get to see Guru Sahib and Navagraha Puja together being held at the same time by a Sindhi speaking priest. In the current world of “either/or” identity , can there be a better example of a unique secular identity that we Sindhis carry! I hope the next generation of Sindhis get to experience our hybrid practices and infact take pride in our unique cultural practices. I plan to visit Gandhidham again soon hopefully for a longer period this time. I also pray to Lal Saeen to bless Ammi. Om Shanti.

 I end with this lovely song sung by Delhi based singer Saeen Rajan Jhangiani remembering his mother, ( Late) Smt Leela Jhangiani who was also an accomplished singer. Titled “ Mithi Amma” , this was released by Saeen Rajan and Radio Sindhi on Dadi Leela’s on her birth anniversary. I hope you like it as much as I did . The lyrics are by Hyder Chhajro.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dR6wT81cFiM

Jai Jhulelal